Tuesday, November 8, 2011

MK Diamond MKDX 2HP Bullnose Machine

!9# MK Diamond MKDX 2HP Bullnose Machine

Brand : MK Diamond
Rate :
Price :
Post Date : Nov 08, 2011 11:21:05
Usually ships in 2-3 business days



This is the MK Diamond MKDX 2HP Bullnose and Profiler Tile Machine and this is exactly what you need to perform perfect bullnose & 45° miter cuts on porcelain, granite, or marble tile. Be a leader of the pack with MK's new heavy duty MKDX Bullnose machine. Fabricate tile & stone on the jobsite cut your costs, & ensure that all of your tile & stone looks like it just came out of the factory. This is truly an innovative machine! Profile & polish on material up to 24". Powerful 2 hp motor is great for marble, travertine, porcelain, or granite tile. Shipping only to the continental 48 states, contact us for shipping prices to Alaska, or Hawaii.

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Friday, November 4, 2011

Mk Diamond 4 Piece Tile Saw Cutting Kit

!9#Mk Diamond 4 Piece Tile Saw Cutting Kit

Brand : MK Diamond
Rate :
Price :
Post Date : Nov 04, 2011 08:24:05
Usually ships in 1-2 business days



This is the MK Diamond 4 Piece Cutting Kit and this is just what you need. This 4 piece kit is now a 5 piece assortment of tools for use with the MK tile saws. The set includes a rip guide for straight rip cuts, a protractor for atypical angles, a dressing stick for redressing glazed diamond blades, a 45 degree flat angle guide for diagonal patterns, and a large bullnose miter guide for truncating the edge of your tile. This kit includes all the attachments you need as a professional tile setter.

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Saturday, October 1, 2011

Granite Countertops - Fabrication Process for Your Granite Countertops

!9# Granite Countertops - Fabrication Process for Your Granite Countertops

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First, the granite is installed in your home is a relatively simple process, if it looks like from the perspective of what we see from the beginning that the final consumer. In a nutshell, is calling us, you choose the disks, and agree on the details, then a few weeks after they are installed.

However, it is always a long process in the stone from its natural state in the soil all the way to be involved in the kitchen table. The process of the Turning Stone in decorativeand functional materials has become more or less the same for centuries. On the other hand, the equipment has changed dramatically in that time, and reduces production time considerably.

The process begins in the quarry, where they are cut large chunks out of the earth many times in a stair-step pattern. Various types of saws and cutting methods used. There are wire saws, along a steel cable with diamond segments are embedded in them. These cables are passed through the "coreHoles "that were drilled horizontally and vertically into a meeting place in a corner of the invisible hand" bank "will be removed. Then the cable is passed through a disc than ever deeper into the stone. Trepanning, as mentioned above, along with "radiation" is another method of freeing large blocks of stone at this early stage of the process. some expansion slots instead of using liquid explosives in the drill, which is responsible for the fragile stone, more and more cracksBlocks.

This first step of the process requires very large and heavy equipment, the blocks of granite from the earth and get ready for dispatch to the "banda" saws. When the blocks arrive at the gate saw operation, the entire block in a 40-60 plates cut simultaneously. These blocks are not standard size, but an average would be approximately 6 meters by 6 meters by 10 meters. This would produce a 72 inch thick plate is not the cutting blades, for about 60 plates. The bandwidth of a typical bladeI'm not really the blades are flat steel materials 3 "x 3 / 16 inch thick. They have no teeth or diamond in it. They mounted in the rack two centimeters wide and 3 cm depending on the thickness desired. The rack is wider the 6-meter-wide plate. This rack is in turn an arm that is outside of an enormous engine to create a movement in and out of the rack mounted when the wheel is rotated by high-performance engines.

After the block was turned into slabs, the car stopsthe 60 plates on his car went shopping for the polishing line. The line of polishing is another massive machine with multiple heads, disk drives of varying degrees of sanding and polishing to polish a rough go. These mills are horizontal to the head plate is on a rough horizontal plane slowly through the machine on a conveyor belt. When the plates come out the other end polishing, polished in the rough. They will then take the A-frames for guestsShipping for wholesalers all over the world.

At this point the panels to give our world here at Alpha works in stone, we will begin your turn in the process. We come to your home and make an exact model of your areas of ceiling. This can wreak havoc on your cabinets new or existing work plan are carried out without them. After the presentation we made, we want to check with you at our shop for a layout to meet so that we can agree on, which are part of various boardson the different sections of your counters.

Once we have agreed on the layout, we go to word cutting and polishing your countertops. The surface has already been polished or honed, or brushed as the case may be. We cut the counters to match the templates on what is known as a bridge saw. This is a large "upside down" table saw. The sawing motor with the diamond blade are suspended above the saw table on the "bridge". This bridge in turn is sitting on two rails some 18 feet apart with rack and pinion drive to move the entire bridge east and west. The motor with blade runs north and south on the bridge via another set of rack and pinion gears. This entire apparatus allows the blade to be positioned anywhere over the 6 foot by 12 foot slab of granite. The saw motor only moves in one straight line, so the table beneath that the slab is laying on rotates in order to allow cuts at any angle needed. The rotating table has positive lock stops at 90, 45 and 135 degrees, and can be locked in any other degree for other cuts as needed. The table on our saw tilts up to nearly vertical via hydraulic cylinders. This makes loading easy and safe for both our workers and for your material. Once the countertop pieces have been cut to size, the edge polishing process begins.

Depending on the configuration of the piece and the desired edge detail, we have several different methods of shaping and polishing them. If they are straight line edges with a flat, beveled, or bull nose shape, they go one our "Pro Edge" machine. This is a machine some 18 feet long, 6 feet wide and around 6 feet tall. It is massively heavy and does the work of two to three men in terms of its output capabilities. You will see both the bridge saw and the Pro Edge in action in the video. If the edges are curved or have jogs in them, these are shaped with routers and grinders. Ogee edge details and other complex shapes of edges are done with large routers.

All through the process we have water spraying on the diamond tooling doing the cutting and grinding. Once the cutting and grinding is done, we proceed with the polishing process. This is done with a series of polishing pads on hand polishing grinders. There are 4 to 8 steps involved in the polishing process depending on the stone type and finish desired. The polishing grits start around 50 grit and go up to 8000 or 10,000 grit. In the case of antique finishes, stiff brushes are used on the grinding machines in place of the polishing pads.

Now that we have your countertops fabricated, it is time to bring them into your home and install them in place. This requires a little brute force and a little experience doesn't hurt a thing! We have learned to work smarter, not necessarily harder, to get the pieces into place. Granite countertops are very heavy to bring in. We use a combination of wheels, ramps, tables and other devices depending on the particular job. The slabs are test fitted then we adhere them to the cabinet tops with the appropriate stone adhesives. Joints are put together with epoxies formulated for stone work. Once the epoxy cures, we dress up the joints and other final details, leaving you with new gleaming granite countertops!


Granite Countertops - Fabrication Process for Your Granite Countertops

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Monday, September 19, 2011

Tiling Walls

!9# Tiling Walls

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You stick a ticket for a show the size and spacing of the tiles. Start with the food on separate tiles, the bottom plastic spacers available through the thickness of the line of malta. With a square and a pencil, mark a straight piece of wood shows the distance between the tiles.

Draw a reference line through space. In a bathroom, pull the line level with the top of the tank. In other areas, draw a level line around the room, which is halfway between floor and ceiling. Draw a secondhorizontal layout of the tile border, if at all. In addition, you must provide the location of recessed lighting, such as medicine cabinets brand.

In a bathroom with a knee wall, draw a line in the middle of it and transfer the line to the wall with a plane. This vertical line will center a line of mortar on the line in the wall plaster knee.

Place the bar passes the intersection of horizontal and vertical reference lines. The horizontal line at the edges of the tiles and entertainmentJoints between them.

Draw a vertical line marking the outer edge of the last piece to complete the goal. Put glue along the tiles and mark the wall showing the location of the tiles and joints. When the time to come, you will begin tiles in this area.

Note mixing a batch of mortar according to the manufacturer. If Malta does not contain latex, latex in a separate tile shops or sold in the department to mix tiles. Latex strengthens and slows maltathe rate of drying, allowing more time to work.

Malta scattered on the wall for the full-time, which is both the angle and the floor. Spread the mortar with a notched trowel controls, the size and shape of the notch, given the amount of mortar on the wall. Make sure you follow the manufacturer's guidelines tile.

Place a full tile on the wall at the intersection of the line. One of the tiles is in place, then measure the distance below it. Subtract the width of a common line of thisMeasurement and use of the combination square to get a line on the face of a tile to select the right size.

To cut the tiles, rather than open in a cutter. Align the card with the cut on the leading boat. Put the knife down and pull the handle toward you and published the tile. The life of the wheel cutting down the T key and press the handle down sharply on the tile to snap along the scored line.

Butter baking tiles in the area where it is difficult mortars, which areWall. Depending on the size of the room, it can be difficult to Malta on the ground or in the vicinity of the edge. If so, apply mortar on the back of the tile with the same knife that was used on the wall.

Place a tile spacers between the tiles and cut above the other and press the tile into the wall. Spacers are sold in department and tiles are available in different widths. Get those equal to the width of the joint through the tile manufacturer's recommendations.

To laycuts on the corner tiles, a stone installed directly over the last disk is full. Place another tile, so that the edge is a spacer against the wall. Trace along the edge of the top plate on the center plate to mark for cutting. Cut the tiles to size and insert it into the mortar.

Continue setting tiles, is addressed with reference lines and spacers so that it contains the correct distance. Barriers for holes with an electric drill with a tile cutter attachment. Brandthe center of the hole on the card, so the cutter diameter to the size of the hole. Disconnect drill the tiles on a piece piece of wood on a flat surface and cut the hole, a low rate to a variable speed.

Making curved tile cuts notches and locking of the tile with an abrasive blade designed to cut the tiles.

Place the tiles on the obstacles as you work along the wall. Make sure that the joints evenly so that the tiles are not createdProblems for the tiles you put later.

Cutting tiles, leaving space for accessories, such as six tiles. Apply thinset mortar inch 1 / 8 on the back wall and the accessory. Put them in the space you have left for them. Support with tape to the dry mortar.

Laying tiles when you reach the border line that marks its location. Dress a border tile wall and are not difficult to install with all the other tiles. Put the tile in place with spacers between them and theirNeighbors. Follow the line of the layout carefully so that the boundary layer remains.

Install the special pieces, such as tiles on the top edge of the tile bull, charity, before it reaches the ceiling. Bullnose tiles have one or more rounded edges on the perfect look. Tile to go all the way up to the ceiling does not need disguise. If necessary, cut, regular fit in the space above the tiles last full plate.

Place the knee when the wall gets. Keep the joints in line with thosethe wall, and maintain the level of tiles with floor tiles and tiles in front of the bull board, only half of the front edge of the wall with double knees turn, which has two edges rounded on top. Install it first, and then cut a single bull to another to adapt.

Remove the plastic spacers and let the thinset dry. Mix enough mortar to fill the gaps. Working in 3-meter-square sections, apply mortar in a sweeping motion with a rubber grout float held at 45 degrees to the wall. NotJoints on the floor, or in the bathtub curve.

All manufacturer recommended time for the series malta, joints and wipe with a damp grout sponge to remove excess mortar. Rinse the sponge frequently in clean water. Wait about 2 hours and sponge remaining distance. After waiting the time specified by the manufacturer for the grout is completely dry, use a special applicator, foam or small brush, apply a coating of silicone to seal the joints to avoidStains and mold.

Squeeze a drop of silicone in the joint above the tub and all the floor and corner joints to seal them against moisture. Run a wet finger around the wet handling. Once the caulk is dry, polish the tiles with a dry cloth to shine.


Tiling Walls

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Tuesday, September 6, 2011

How to create a Top Kitchen Bar in 10 easy steps

!9# How to create a Top Kitchen Bar in 10 easy steps

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Step by step instructions:

1 Measure the length of the kitchen through the window card base. In our case it was 89.5 inches.

2 Understanding the length of the new upstairs bar. Standard lengths of prefabricated counters are four feet, two feet, two feet and three feet. Select the length that is more than the size of next mouth. In our case it was three meters.

3 Decide how deep you want to be your top bar. This is a matter of personal taste, but you need ahis little "piece" later as a conservative. We chose 23-inch, 5 inches on top of the window ledge base and 18 cm. Adjust the circular saw blade 1 / 8 "deep, the thickness of the worktop. Back Measure from the bull-nose side of the bar to the desired depth and mark both ends. Run a length of narrow ribbon from side to side ' another brand. and the other will take over the tape for good or held together in a perfect line, this has two functions. First, they give you a baseline forcut, and secondly to avoid that the laminate from chipping. Cut to follow the entire length of the work plan and look at the band edge in a perfect line. Keep your hand still, the smallest splash.

4 grooves are cut into the top bar so that the cut or the window of the base side is the right length. Bars are symmetrical peaks, but you can enter the notches as long as the window frame that the base is the right length to fit. If you start with the notchesSaw you must remember to stop, behind the cutting notch, and completely finished with a hand saw. It 'better to do only the total score with a hand saw. Cut notches on both sides to a depth in the same window as the base. We had 5 inches.

Step 5 and install the brackets with screws and drill. Install the pin layout for the wall for the best.

6 Lift block the new upstairs bar. Check for a good fit. Remove and cut by hand saw, ifare needed. Run a bead of adhesive directly to the liberal base of the window and replace the top bar, press on the glue. Check whether it's back end and front-to-end at different points along their length.

7 Tighten the bar at the top of the brackets with screws that are too long and penetrate into the top bar.

8 Follow the instructions on the kit order. Cut the tails correspond to the new depth and iron with a hot iron. Keep moving the iron when in contact with theMaterial, so as not to burn.

9 Then the circular saw is one-eighth inch deep. Run two straight parallel cuts, one inch apart from scrap on the backsplash of the work plan. Remove the laminate with a hammer and a flat-blade screwdriver not to break or divide the strip of laminate. With this band to hide the cut the top of the new bar. Cut the strips to length and glue the cut edge. Use tape to keep him around until the glue dries.

10 Make asmall amount of silicone around all edges of the top bar. Smooth the caulk with a wet fingertip joint. Sand the edge with 150 sandpaper to remove any sharp points.

Enjoy your new granite tops are really looking for!


How to create a Top Kitchen Bar in 10 easy steps

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